When Luxury Supply Chains Break Down: What the Loro Piana Case Reveals
July 24, 2025
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5 mins read
Luxury brand Loro Piana, owned by LVMH, has been placed under a one-year judicial administration by an Italian court after a labor exploitation investigation uncovered serious abuses within its supply chain. According to Reuters, workers at a subcontracted factory were paid as little as €4 per hour and subjected to 90-hour workweeks, often living inside the premises. One worker was reportedly attacked after requesting unpaid wages, requiring 45 days of medical treatment. The case highlights the growing scrutiny of labor conditions in Italy’s fashion manufacturing sector, especially among high-end labels. Loro Piana is now the fifth luxury brand, joining Dior, Armani, Valentino, and Alviero Martini, under court supervision due to supplier-related violations.
A Complicated Web of Subcontracting
What sets this case apart is the complexity of the supply chain. Loro Piana did not contract directly with the workshop where the violations occurred. Instead, it worked through two front companies, both of which lacked actual manufacturing capacity. These intermediaries then subcontracted the work to a network of unregistered or poorly monitored producers. All the firms involved in this chain have been swept up in the investigation.
This multi-tier outsourcing structure made it difficult to detect violations and raises questions about accountability. The Milan court noted that Loro Piana "culpably failed" to supervise its partners, prioritizing cost and output over due diligence.
Why It Matters
Luxury brands trade on trust and exclusivity. Consumers expect not just quality, but integrity, especially regarding sourcing. When serious labor violations are revealed, the reputational risks extend far beyond one product or supplier. They affect brand credibility, investor confidence, and long-term consumer loyalty.
This incident also reinforces a trend: regulators are increasingly willing to intervene when voluntary monitoring fails. Judicial administration isn’t just symbolic; it’s a legally binding oversight mechanism aimed at forcing systemic change.
The Path Forward
For fashion brands, this is a clear signal that supply chain governance must go deeper. That includes mapping indirect suppliers, improving transparency around subcontracting, and enforcing ethical standards at every level. Simply trusting the next link in the chain is no longer enough.
In a sector built on craftsmanship and heritage, safeguarding those values behind the scenes is just as important as what ends up on the runway.
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In October 2022, this multinational integrated energy and petroleum company found itself in the crosshairs of two non-government organizations (NGOs), accusing it of "exploiting a gas field used to manufacture kerosene used by Russian planes in their bombings in Ukraine," according to the French daily Le Monde. The accusations expressly point out the 16 March 2022 strike, which killed around 600 civilians taking shelter at a Mariupol theatre.
The company? TotalEnergies.
The NGOs? Razom We Stand (Ukraine) and Darwin Climax Coalitions (France).
Also, in October, TotalEnergies posted a third-quarter net profit amid these allegations. "The French group reported an adjusted net income of $9.86 billion, compared with $4.77 billion for the same period in 2021 and $9.8 billion in the second quarter of this year," per Reuters.
Should investors and asset and portfolio managers be concerned? Is this one instance of allegations a nothing burger, or is it a sign—one of many red flags—to evaluate? Let's find out in this edition of Alternative Data Trends: TotalEnergies.
After the spike in controversies in March 2022, TotalEnergies's web mentions continued to increase. And as a reflection of the mentions volume increases, the company's polarity decreases, moving in the direction of negative sentiment. News events triggering these movements include the legal case for allegedly fuelling Russian bombers and refinery strikes over wages.
Let's take a closer look at TotalEnergies's environmental risks, specifically for general environmental strategy, climate change and atmospheric pollution, and biodiversity. The topic of climate change and atmospheric pollution takes the largest share of mentions. Web data driving this volume include:
TotalEnergies's social risks reveal even more controversies, looking at human rights, human capital, and customer relations topics. Human rights and human capital topics almost equally dominate topic mentions. Controversies highlighting the human rights topic include:
Finally, let's look at TotalEnergies's governance risk, specifically within topics for influence strategy and communication, corruption, and board of directors (executive and company management). The influence strategy and communication topic dominates the mentions volume. These controversies relate to greenwashing, such as:
Recapping TotalEnergies's ESG risks and public perception
We only scratched the web data surface for information on TotalEnergies, but even with this overview, you can probably see a pattern. Should investors, asset managers, and portfolio managers be concerned about the latest allegations against TotalEnergies? Maybe. At the very least, the data shows you should dig into the research and ask more questions to mitigate any risks in your portfolio companies.
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SESAMm is a leading NLP technology company serving global investment firms, corporations, and investors, such as private equity firms, hedge funds, and other asset management firms, by providing datasets or NLP capabilities to generate their own alternative data for use cases, such as ESG and SDG, sentiment, private equity due diligence, corporation studies, and more.
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If I told you that I had a crystal ball and could predict the future, you’d probably laugh in my face. But what if I told you that this crystal ball could give you seemingly invisible data indicating what the future is likely to be, helping you make better investment decisions? Did your ears perk up? I bet they did.
Alternative data, specifically natural language processing (NLP)-generated alternative data, is like a crystal ball. It can help portfolio managers, analysts, and public equity investment managers make better decisions by identifying controversies about a company or potential investment before mainstream data providers and ESG rating firms can. That means you can take data-informed actions before a possible change in your investment value occurs.
That was a lot, so before we go further, let’s cover a quick basic as a refresher.
What is alternative data?
Alternative data is non-traditional information extracted from non-traditional data sources, such as internet social media communities and deeper-level article data. This subset of big data is often nonfinancial and unstructured.
Why use alternative data for finance?
In financial services, alternative data sets give investors insight into the investment process and guide their investment strategies. For example, quant hedge fund managers, asset managers, and private equity firms use alternative data to augment conventional data like those that come from quarterly financial statements and SEC filings. This unconventional data can reveal insights such as metrics on environmental, social, and corporate governance (ESG) information, sentiment analysis, and consumer behavior.
Where does alternative data come from?
Firms, such as data vendors or alternative data providers, find raw data from various sources, depending on the details you need. For instance, they can pull data from transaction data, like credit card transactions, text data from social media platforms and obscure media publishers. They can also extract information from technologies like satellite imagery and geolocation data, IoT sensors, web traffic, app usage, and new data sources yet to exist. All to say, alternative-data sources are found anywhere unconventional, valuable data live.
How does NLP-generated alternative data differ?
NLP-generated alternative data is more than raw data collection and presentation. Instead, it reveals the hard-to-see data and interprets it so you can make better decisions. At SESAMm, for example, we generate alternative data from text using NLP algorithms on a massive, ready-to-use data lake to identify noteworthy trends. Our developers and data scientists then use their machine learning technology to analyze these trends and build investment strategies for our clients.
How can alternative data identify controversies before mainstream providers and ESG rating firms?
There are two main ways alternative data identifies controversies before mainstream providers and ESG rating firms:
First, NLP-generated alternative data’s inherent quality is that it can reveal trends that mainstream providers and ESG firms can’t. And because of this quality—the ability to identify and analyze trends—you can use it to see warnings before a major controversy hits the mainstream.
Second, rating providers can be inconsistent and inaccurate, according to Andrew McLaughlin, a contributor to The Globe and Mail. He states that many ESG rating providers, for instance, are “popping up like dandelions,” and “each uses its own methodologies to rank and score publicly traded companies based on their purported environmental, social and governance risk and performance.” Further, “[their] reports produced are at times rife with inaccuracies,” McLaughlin says. While we at SESAMm might not agree with McLaughlin completely, we believe that alternative data helps bridge the gap between possible shortcomings and a more comprehensive view of an investment’s risks and opportunities.
2 NLP-generated alternative data use cases as examples:
Ericsson (ERIC) analysis
Event: On February 16, 2022, Ericsson investigates an in-house bribery scandal tied to ISIS. According to FIERCE Wireless, “investors reacted to reports that Ericsson may have made payments to the ISIS terror organization to gain access to certain transport routes in Iraq.”
Results: Ericsson’s share value dropped by at least 15% that day as news broke and investors reacted. “It was its biggest share drop in a day since July 2017,” per FIERCE Wireless.
What did NLP-generated alternative data see?
In Ericsson’s case, we analyzed three areas from January 2016 to the event on February 16, 2022:
Name-mention volume
Sentiment polarity
ESG Initiatives Score
Figure 1: Volume over time chart for Ericsson
In Figure 1, we chart our analysis of data volumes, indicating spikes to help detect significant positive or negative events. For instance, the payment scandal similarly affected mention volume as a controversy in 2020. Mentions related to the more recent events continue to increase, making it potentially Ericsson’s most controversial issue so far.
Figure 2: Polarity over time chart for Ericsson
In Figure 2, we analyze Ericsson’s polarity over time. Polarity represents the aggregate of positive and negative sentiment (opinions, reviews) on a company. It can range from -1 to 1. A 0 score means that as much positive as negative sentiment is expressed. High e-reputation brands can have polarity scores over 0.7, based on SESAMm’s research and findings.
Ericsson’s overall polarity sits in the average range for the most part. However, we found that Ericsson’s sentiment suffered significant negative drops caused by controversial news. In other words, the company’s reputation has been affected several times over the years, with the most recent controversies going viral and perceived as very negative.
Figure 3: ESG Score over time for Ericsson
In Figure 3, SESAMm used the analyzed areas and comparisons to compute an ESG Score based on proprietary ESG initiatives data. The scale ranges from 0 to 1, with zero indicating a low and undesirable value and one having a higher and desirable value. We score Ericsson in the 0.05–0.10 range, which we think is relatively low for this company. Despite Ericsson increasing its ESG initiatives over the past year, recent controversies have affected its score negatively.
Figure 4: Ericsson’s ESG risks over time compared to its stock price
Figure 4 charts Ericsson’s ESG risk, which is based on SESAMm’s web data. The range varies from 0 to 1, zero indicating the lowest risk and one as the highest. Ericsson’s score from its latest scandal is a 1. Compared to Ericsson’s stock prices, several spikes in ESG risk anticipated market movements.
Orpea SA (ORP:FP) analysis
Event: On January 24, 2022, Le Monde published an article about the book “Les Fossoyeurs”. According to Le Monde, the book concentrates most of its attacks on Orpéa, a top nursing homes and clinics company, employing “65,000 employees in 1,100 establishments across the planet; 220 nursing homes in France alone.” The book’s author attacks the “Orpea system” and reveals reported elderly abuse and deaths possibly caused by it or negligence.
The media begins to question the limits of ESG rating because of Orpea’s scandal.
Results: Two things occurred after the news broke. One, Orpea’s stock price sustained a 44-point drop. Two, the media begins to question the limits of ESG rating, given Orpea’s rating at the time.
What did NLP-generated alternative data see?
In Orpea’s case, we analyzed three areas from January 2016 to the event on February 16, 2022:
Name-mention volume
Sentiment polarity
ESG Initiatives Score
Figure 5: Volume over time chart for Orpea
In Figure 5, we analyzed volumes of data and compared them with significant events detected. Volume spikes detect clear, negative events in Orpea’s case. For instance, on January 24, 2022, the breaking news had the highest effect since 2016. It’s worthy to note that an upward mention trend becomes visible before the scandal emerges, with volumes reaching levels higher than average.
ESG scores, which range from 0 to 1, are relatively low for Orpea on average. Its controversies have strongly affected its scores in 2018 and 2022 in particular. But the trend to see in the chart is that Orpea’s ESG score had been trending downward for several months before Le Monde’s breaking story.
Figure 8:Orpea’s ESG risks over time compared to its stock price
Figure 8 charts Orpea’s ESG risk, which is based on SESAMm’s web data. The range varies from 0 to 1, zero indicating the lowest risk and one as the highest. Ericsson’s score from its latest scandal is a 1. Compared to Orpea’s stock prices, several spikes in ESG risk anticipated market movements. The current controversy, while very viral, represents a risk equivalent to the 2018 revelations.
Summarizing SESAMm’s Ericsson and Orpea findings
NLP-generated alternative data was able to see trends and events that mainstream ESG rating firms didn’t in the Ericsson and Orpea cases. In both cases, SESAMm would’ve flagged controversies in at least three key areas, name-mention volume, sentiment polarity, and ESG Initiatives Score. And these three areas, with additional proprietary analysis from SESAMm, would’ve provided much-needed insight to investors before their respective market-moving events had occurred.
How SESAMm’s NLP-generated alternative data can help you
Whether for fundamental, quantitative, or quantamental investment use cases, to monitor your corporate risks, or to conduct advanced due diligence on private companies for investment opportunities, explore limitless possibilities using SESAMm’s industry-leading data lake. Our data lake consists of nearly 20 billion articles today, and it’s growing by 20% every year. And if our data lake is our crystal ball, then TextReveal® is what fuels its magic. The data, in conjunction with TextReveal’s NLP algorithms, can reveal alternative data, such as emotion and sentiment data and ESG and risk metrics, on more than 70 million entities like:
Assets
Brands
Product reviews
C-level people
And more
And you can easily access valuable alerts and predictive insights—from live daily or historical data—through dashboards, APIs, or flat files delivered in usable formats. Are you ready to uncover the invisible data about your investments? Request a demo today.
The rapid growth of social media companies has created significant ESG challenges, particularly in the areas of data privacy, content moderation, and corporate governance.
Meta and ByteDance, in particular, have been hit with lawsuits and fines related to data breaches, privacy violations, harmful content affecting minors, labor practices, and antitrust, with regulatory bodies across the US, EU, and Asia increasing scrutiny of their data collection practices.
Let’s dive into some of the key ESG challenges facing the social networking industry.
Meta Platforms Inc.: Privacy Breaches and Regulatory Scrutiny
Meta, the mother company of some of the most used social platforms, Facebook, Instagram, and WhatsApp, has faced numerous ESG challenges over the years, including privacy breaches, data misuse, and content moderation issues. 2025 is off to a rocky start, with the company facing a new lawsuit over personal data usage for targeted ads. In 2024, Meta was fined €251 million for a 2018 data breach and faced fines in South Korea and Nigeria for unlawful data collection and antitrust trials regarding Instagram and WhatsApp. In 2023, it addressed issues related to minors and employee treatment. Previous years included fines over the Cambridge Analytica scandal and minors' privacy violations, highlighting ongoing governance and privacy risks amidst regulatory scrutiny.
ByteDance Ltd (TikTok): National Security Risks and Content Concerns
In recent years, TikTok has faced significant ESG risks as U.S. politicians labeled it a national security threat, leading to data privacy concerns and investigations in the EU. By 2022, it incurred major fines, including a £27 million penalty in the UK for data breaches. In 2023, child safety and harmful content lawsuits increased, prompting government bans on official devices in the U.S., UK, and EU. In 2024, TikTok lost its appeal against a U.S. ban, while countries like Canada and Albania imposed restrictions. A 2025 Supreme Court ruling heightened the risk of a complete ban, highlighting ongoing legal challenges.
Since Elon Musk's acquisition of X (formerly Twitter), the platform has faced major controversies over hate speech and misinformation. Legal issues from the $44 billion buyout and a $150 million settlement for security breaches surfaced in 2022, along with fines in Russia and India. In 2023, X received backlash for hosting anti-Semitic content, leading to advertiser losses and lawsuits. The EU initiated investigations into disinformation, and by 2024, X faced fines in Brazil and Australia, GDPR complaints, and class action lawsuits related to age discrimination and mass layoffs, raising concerns about its online impact.
Kakao has faced moderate ESG risks, notably privacy issues and market behavior controversies. In 2024, the company was fined $11.1 million due to a KakaoTalk data breach. Additionally, in 2023, Kakao faced investigations over market manipulation linked to its SM Entertainment acquisition and experienced security vulnerabilities enabling fraudulent activities. Despite these concerns, Kakao's service outages and monopolistic practice allegations have had less severe impacts compared to industry peers.
REDnote (Xiaohongshu) has fewer ESG issues compared to its peers, facing challenges primarily related to censorship, privacy, and regulatory compliance. In 2025, Texas banned its use on government devices due to security concerns. Earlier, REDnote encountered legal challenges over AI-generated art copyrights (2023), a Taiwan-imposed national security ban (2022), layoffs due to restructuring (2022), and fines by Chinese regulators for inappropriate content involving minors (2021).
The social networking industry continues to grapple with significant ESG challenges related to data privacy, harmful content, and corporate governance. Major companies such as Meta, ByteDance, X Corp, KakaoTalk, and REDnote face ongoing regulatory scrutiny, fines, and lawsuits, highlighting persistent ethical concerns. While these issues pressure platforms to improve transparency and governance practices, they also underscore the industry's substantial risks and responsibilities to users and stakeholders.
Reach out to SESAMm
TextReveal’s web data analysis of over five million public and private companies is essential for keeping tabs on ESG investment risks. To learn more about how you can analyze web data or to request a demo, reach out to one of our representatives.
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