On October 1st, SESAMm hosted its second annual “SESAMm Day” in Paris at the EY Impact Lab. The evening kicked off with the Paris 2043 immersive experience, an eye-opening scenario of Paris in 2043 should climate commitments fail. Designed to spark forward-looking discussions, the experience set the stage for a full evening of insight, exchange, and networking among peers across private equity, asset management, banking, and consulting.
The event also featured a dynamic 45-minute panel discussion moderated by Sylvain Forté, CEO of SESAMm, with three distinguished panelists:
Dr. Julia Haake, Head of ESG Rating Agency at EthiFinance
Elsa Couteaud, RSE Director at Praemia
Abigail Arellano Sanchez, Sustainability Project Manager and Data Specialist at Natixis Investment Managers
From Data to Decisions
The conversation opened with a critical challenge facing the industry: transforming abundant ESG data into actionable insights. The panelists discussed their approaches to filtering signal from noise, focusing on how controversy alerts, automated reports, and ESG scores inform actual investment, financing, and rating decisions. The key, they emphasized, lies in establishing clear hierarchies and methodologies to prevent information overload.
Addressing ESG Skepticism
The panel also addressed the growing concerns around greenwashing, regulatory complexity, and "ESG fatigue." An interesting linguistic shift emerged during the discussion. One panelist noted that the term “sustainability” is increasingly preferred over "ESG" in job titles. In contrast, another panelist pointed out that 10-15 years ago, the trend was reversed, as the industry moved from sustainability to ESG.
While European skepticism focuses less on ESG fundamentals and more on complexity and costs, particularly with regulations like Omnibus, the panelists acknowledged growing operational fatigue. For example, the speakers highlighted that teams are demanding more pragmatism and concrete action over the burden of reporting.
The Future of ESG Data and Themes
Looking forward, the panel identified several emerging priorities:
Climate adaptation is taking center stage, with physical risks such as heatwaves and flooding becoming increasingly impossible to ignore. The future of ESG data will be increasingly forward-looking and predictive.
New themes are reshaping the ESG landscape. Biodiversity remains a work in progress requiring significant development. Responsible AI has emerged as both an ESG theme and a transformative force for the industry itself. Even defense has become a consideration as an exclusion or inclusion criterion, raising questions about which other exclusion themes might emerge or fade.
Supply chain risks are gaining prominence, particularly in emerging markets where local taxonomies and data remain scarce. One panelist shared that accessing reliable data on emissions and physical risks in these regions is challenging, with insurance data often providing the most qualified information.
A Call to Action
The panel concluded with a pragmatic vision: rather than being overwhelmed by ever-increasing data, the focus should shift toward enhancing real-world impact and climate resilience. With reputational and financial risks mounting, the message is clear: it's time to move from reporting to action.
Closing Reflections
SESAMm Day 2025 closed on a high note, with participants continuing the conversation over networking drinks. We extend our warm thanks to everyone who joined us, and in particular to our panelists for sharing their perspectives and making the evening both insightful and engaging.
SESAMm’s AI Technology Reveals ESG Insights
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We recently held an insightful webinar co-hosted by Charlotte Salmon of Indefi and Alejandro Plaza of SESAMm, titled "AI in ESG Due Diligence: Best Practices from Indefi and SESAMm." The session explored the innovative application of artificial intelligence in the ESG risk assessment process.
During the webinar, Charlotte and Alejandro discussed how Indefi's proven strategies, when combined with SESAMm's cutting-edge AI platform, can significantly enhance ESG risk management and the selection of target companies. One of the key highlights was a detailed case study on major delivery apps, including Glovo, Uber Eats, DoorDash, Deliveroo, Grubhub, and Just Eat. This segment covered industry and competitive analysis, sentiment analysis, and a deep dive into ESG controversies and positive SDG impacts associated with these companies.
Key Topics Covered:
Due diligence process for ESG risk assessment
AI integration in ESG risk management
Selection of target companies
Delivery apps case study: industry and competitive analysis, sentiment analysis, and deep dives into ESG controversies and SDG positive impacts
Don't miss out on this opportunity to learn from industry leaders about the future of ESG due diligence. Watch the full webinar replay:
Human rights concerns took center stage in November, with rising scrutiny on how digital platforms and luxury brands safeguard vulnerable users and workers. Across the market, allegations of child exploitation, extremist activity, and labor abuses exposed significant governance and oversight gaps. The month’s top three most controversial companies were Roblox Corporation, Snap Inc. (Snapchat), and Tod’s, each facing escalating legal and regulatory pressure.
#1: Roblox Corporation: Intensifying Allegations of Child Exploitation
Roblox, the video game developer, experienced a surge of human rights–related controversies, driven by lawsuits and criminal cases involving child exploitation and online extremism. Multiple families in the United States filed suits alleging that predators used the game to groom and coerce minors, in some cases leading to severe psychological harm.
At a broader level, new research from the Canadian Centre for Child Protection revealed widespread online sexual violence among youth, with Snapchat cited as one of the primary platforms involved. The company was also named in a major lawsuit filed by US school districts against Meta, Google, Snapchat, and TikTok, alleging that platforms suppressed internal research on youth harm and failed to implement meaningful protections.
In the luxury sector, Tod’s faced heightened scrutiny following new developments in an ongoing investigation into labor exploitation at its supplier factories. Italian prosecutors expanded their probe into three company executives, citing evidence of serious labor violations involving 53 workers employed by subcontractors. Issues raised included long working hours, low wages, inadequate safety standards, and poor living conditions.
Authorities also highlighted potential negligence and omissions by management, arguing that Tod’s failed to act on inspection findings that documented the abuses. Prosecutors have requested a six-month advertising ban and previously sought judicial administration over the company’s supply chain controls.
Conclusion
November’s top controversies underscore increasing pressure on companies to ensure robust human rights protections, both online and across global supply chains. As regulators, law enforcement, and civil society intensify oversight, firms in technology and consumer markets face rising expectations to demonstrate stronger safety systems, transparent governance, and proactive risk management.
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Globally, ethics and sustainability are important, but the retail industry faces intense scrutiny over supply chain integrity. This spotlight shines on SHEIN and TEMU, two giants in the fast fashion and e-commerce sectors, known for their vast reach yet marred by controversies around labor practices and environmental impacts. This article explores their supply chain strategies, examining how current and emerging legislation, like the CSDDD initiative, aims to tackle the ethical dilemmas plaguing global retail. Through a comparison of SHEIN and TEMU, we assess the effectiveness of regulatory frameworks in addressing these critical issues. By analyzing their ESG controversies and comparing their responses, we assess how well current and future legislation, particularly the CSDDD initiative, addresses ethical issues in global supply chains.
Specialized Retail: The Case of SHEIN and TEMU
SHEIN and TEMU are compelling use cases due to their past controversies and the focus on their supply chain practices. Both companies have come under scrutiny for their labor practices, environmental impacts, and ethical issues, making them ideal subjects for analysis. By studying their supply chain challenges, we aim to assess the effectiveness of current legislation and predict the potential impact of future regulatory frameworks, particularly in the context of the CSDDD initiative.
While both companies operate with a similar business model, SHEIN is an established player entangled in numerous supply chain controversies. On the other hand, TEMU, a newcomer since 2022, faces similar issues. Comparing them helps us evaluate the effectiveness of existing supply chain legislation and determine whether increased regulatory scrutiny has improved compliance or merely raised awareness of these controversies within the industry.
Note:
Size bias mitigation:
We normalized the data for both companies to ensure an equal basis of comparison, accommodating the difference in operational history—SHEIN since 2008 and TEMU since 2022— to eliminate discrepancies in web attention.
Risk analysis:
It’s worth noting that the figures presented here specifically relate to supply chain risks, as that is the primary focus of our analysis.
Examining Supply Chain Controversies
We analyzed ESG risks in the supply chains of SHEIN and TEMU over the past four years, adjusting data volumes for comparative analysis. SHEIN's supply chain risks have significantly increased since 2021, peaking in 2022 and continuing to rise in 2023, reflecting a growing online focus on its issues. Meanwhile, TEMU, despite only being established in 2022, has quickly come under intense scrutiny. The company faces frequent criticism for its supply chain practices, including condemnations for inaction and ongoing human rights violations.
Examining Social Sub-risks
In our analysis of social risks within the supply chains of TEMU and SHEIN, we discovered that fundamental human rights and labor rights are the most and second most prevalent issues, respectively. Notably, despite TEMU's more recent establishment compared to SHEIN, its supply chain has a relatively higher proportion of human rights controversies.
Both companies have faced serious allegations related to their supply chain practices. TEMU and SHEIN are scrutinized for using Chinese cotton potentially linked to slave labor, with insufficient efforts to mitigate forced labor risks. Allegations include child slavery, privacy issues related to sharing user data, and environmental neglect, including the use of carcinogens in products. Despite their efforts to boost their public image through aggressive marketing and influencer engagements, both companies have been criticized for their approach to environmental responsibility and labor practices.
Political calls for investigations into the use of Uyghur slave labor in both companies underscore their ethical challenges. Neither company has shown rigorous compliance with anti-forced labor laws, lacking stringent programs to audit supplier compliance. This highlights significant gaps in their corporate responsibility efforts.
It's evident that social risks, particularly human rights breaches and labor rights controversies, have received significantly more attention than environmental risks. Despite the severity of environmental events, they represent a lower percentage in comparison. This highlights the prioritization of addressing social issues within these companies' operations.
SHEIN experiences extensive scrutiny, leading to a wealth of data on its practices. Conversely, TEMU, despite facing environmental controversies, has been less transparent about its environmental footprint, with Greenpeace reports highlighting this lack of clarity. This disparity underscores that SHEIN’s environmental impacts are more thoroughly documented than TEMU’s.
These environmental and health issues gained attention during SHEIN’s attempts to launch IPOs in the US and UK, spotlighting the company's ethical and environmental practices. Despite SHEIN's pledges to donate towards solving textile waste problems, critics label these actions as greenwashing, calling for significant alterations to its business model to address the underlying issues effectively.
Supply Chain Dynamics: SHEIN vs TEMU
While TEMU doesn't have its own brand like SHEIN, it operates under a comparable business model. It acts as an intermediary, managing shipments for products it doesn't manufacture. Despite their distinct approaches, both companies frequently engage in disputes, drawing attention to their supply chains. Additionally, policymakers often group them with similar firms, subjecting their fast fashion practices to heightened scrutiny.
These events highlight the growing scrutiny surrounding the supply chain practices of both SHEIN and TEMU. Senator Rubio's call for an investigation into allegations of Uyghur slave labor usage by both companies, additionally, mentions of Congressional attention has also focused on these companies, with reports exposing violations of U.S. tariff laws and evasion of human rights reviews on imports, shedding light on systemic issues within their operations.
Increasing Sustainability Awareness
We studied the mentions of both ESG initiatives associated with the brands and detected that over the analyzed time frame, SHEIN has been associated with significantly more initiatives than TEMU.
We analyzed the sustainability initiatives of these companies, finding that SHEIN's efforts outpace TEMU's significantly.
SHEIN focused on circular economy practices, exemplified by partnerships like that with Queen of Raw to reuse excess industry inventory and launches such as EvoluSHEIN and SHEIN Exchange, also boosting Product safety mentions, which promote recycled materials and resale of used products, respectively.
Throughout our analysis period, we noted that 2022 was a turning point for SHEIN's sustainability efforts, sparked by several mentions of breaches related to the Modern Slavery Act and child labor allegations in the previous year, which subsequently increased the company’s sustainability-related mentions. By 2023, as SHEIN prepared for potential IPOs in the US and UK and with the release of a controversial documentary, the company faced heightened scrutiny, with more allegations surfacing in its supply chain concerning various acts and legislations, such as the Modern Slavery Act, Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act, and others. Despite these challenges, mentions of SHEIN’s ESG initiatives also rose, although they remained less prominent than risk-related mentions due to controversies typically gaining more attention online. However, from 2024 to the present, we have observed more initiatives than risks, suggesting that, despite some acts and legislations being non-binding or not directly applicable to SHEIN, the potential reputational impacts drive the company toward positive change.
It's worth noting that we've observed discussions linking SHEIN with the recent EU Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive, also referred to as CSDDD or CS3D. These discussions underscore the view that governments should refrain from incentivizing fast fashion companies like SHEIN. As the CSDDD is expected to bring about significant changes, forcing businesses to identify, prevent, or mitigate adverse impacts of their operations on human rights and the environment. Notably broader in scope compared to previous legislation, this directive will apply to all EU companies surpassing a certain revenue threshold. Consequently, fast-fashion retailers like SHEIN will face increased requirements to take action and ensure compliance.
The absence of enforceable regulations allows companies like TEMU to continue operating, but SHEIN's actions, particularly as it moves towards an IPO, raise questions about whether its efforts to improve practices are driven by the scrutiny associated with preparing for a public offering or by a sincere commitment to compliance with laws and regulations.
To conclude, our analysis underscores the dynamic landscape of supply chain regulations, ESG risks, and sustainability initiatives within the specialized retail sector, particularly in the fast-fashion industry. A focus on SHEIN and TEMU reveals a rise in both ESG initiatives and identified breaches. SHEIN's proactive initiatives suggest a response to regulatory pressures. Additionally, our findings suggest that even without binding legal requirements, companies may still choose to comply to enhance their reputation or respond to heightened scrutiny.
Reach out to SESAMm
TextReveal’s web data analysis of over five million public and private companies is essential for keeping tabs on ESG investment risks. To learn more about how you can analyze web data or to request a demo, reach out to one of our representatives.
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